The cheesesteak might be the most iconic and signature sandwich of the City of Philadelphia, but is it the most representative of our fair city? I present you with the unmistakable Italian roast pork sandwich. Never heard of it? Only heard of it after it won “Best Sandwich in America” after it was featured on the Food Network show of the same name? Yes, it beat out iconic American sandwiches like Katz’s Pastrami, Domilise’s shrimp po’boy and Primanti Bros. Regardless if you’ve been aware of this culinary magnificence, I’m going to tell you about it anyway and where you can snag the best of the best if you are in Philadelphia.
The pure, down to the bones, definition of an Italian roast pork sandwich is all about the process and can be broken down into four distinct parts:
- Roast Pork – The pork itself is usually a roast that is heavily seasoned with Italian herbs and spices that is then slow roasted over a long period of time. From there it is allowed to rest overnight before it is then sliced thin and heated up in the previous roasting’s au jus.
- Broccoli Rabe – or rapini, is a bitter, nutty vegetable that is sautéed in olive and garlic until it is tender, but also not complete mush (the structural integrity of the rabe is important). Some places don’t do broccoli rabe and will offer a similarly cooked spinach…which is fine, but doesn’t feel right.
- Sharp Provolone – We aren’t talking about your sliced deli provolone cheese you are getting at ShopRite or Acme. This is ideally Italian imported, hard cheese that you are hand-carving/shaving to put into your sandwich. If I’m seeing slices of Dietz & Watson I’m giving you points off.
- Italian Roll – As with a cheesesteak or hoagie, a crusty Italian loaf is needed for the perfect Italian roast pork sandwich. It should have a crusty exterior and fluffy inside, so that while it will soak up the juices from the pork, the structural integrity of the outside won’t make the sandwich disintegrate. Extra points if the roll is seeded (sesame seeds on the outside for the folks outside Philly).
Construction of the sandwich is less complex than a cheesesteak, which needs proper distribution of all the ingredients. For my ideal roast pork sandwich I need the misshapen pieces of sharp provolone on the bottom of the roll first as the warm roast pork and juices slowly melt as the sandwich is ready to eat. As cheese melts, you can then either lay the broccoli rabe on top or slightly above the pork so you can tuck it in as you close the sandwich. Pour a little of that au jus over it if you don’t mind a mess, but if the roast pork is coming right out of the pot then it should be plenty moist. That’s it; that is the Philly Italian roast pork.
You will find many offerings in and around the City of Philadelphia that will serve this up both traditionally or with its own twist. I’m going to give you my favorites and I hope you agree (if you don’t, drop in the comments to tell me how I’m wrong). If you don’t see your favorite place on this list, let me know that too. It could be that I haven’t tried it yet (or it is actually bad!).
9 . Woodrow’s Sandwich Shop
Woodrow’s serves dynamite food. From their cheesesteak to their hand-cut fries, they are one of the hidden Philly gems that only the locals and diehards know. Their roast pork is no exception. It’s served on a crusty seeded Italian roll, with the aforementioned pork, broccoli rabe, aged provolone and long-hot aioli. If you aren’t familiar with that last one, long-hots are roasted Italian hot peppers. Woodrow’s takes that classic Philly staple and makes it into an aioli which…which is honestly amazing. It gives the right amount of heat to a sandwich that generally doesn’t have any. The two best things about this sandwich are easily the aioli and the seeded roll. The pork is fine and well-seasoned, but felt off because it was “pulled” rather than sliced, giving it a different texture than what I ideally look for in this sandwich.
8. Tony and Nick’s Steaks
Not familiar with these guys? No, they aren’t new, but instead re-branded from the classic, “Tony Luke’s”. I won’t go into details, but Tony Luke Sr. and son Nick had a falling out with Tony Luke Jr.. They also had some…legal troubles. Anyway, they are Tony and Nick’s Steaks now. While I’m not a fan of their steak, they do some other things much better like their roast pork. The roll is simply good, not great. The biggest draw of this sandwich is the sheer amount of pork you get on this sandwich. Is it the most flavorful? No. The broccoli rabe? A bit flavorless. The provolone tasted good, but didn’t melt as much as I’d hoped. But did I mention THE MEAT.
7. Jaxx Steaks Taproom
Jaxx’s presentation was beautiful. I actually tried this in conjunction with their cheesesteak which I liked slightly better. The seeded roll was fantastic and the pork was very flavorful…however I just wanted more of it. The lack of meat made the sandwich feel a little bit lost, but aside from that and for some reason laying the provolone on top, this was an excellent sandwich overall. Jaxx if you are reading this, we need the meats!
6. Cosmi’s Deli
Cosmi’s Deli is a South Philly staple where you can get excellent…well anything! Cheesesteaks, hoagies and plenty of other Italian deli goodies. The sandwich itself was done perfectly, from the crusty roll, the tenderness of the pork, the melty sharp provolone and the quality of the broccoli rabe. The only thing holding back the sandwich was the pork could have used just a bit more seasoning to put it over the top and higher up in these rankings.
5. Campo’s Deli
Considering how much I feel their cheesesteaks have declined over the years, I was absolutely blown away by their roast pork sandwich. Their roll was KILLER and I loved how the pork, rabe and provolone was incorporated. It made every bite near perfection. Both the pork and rabe were seasoned well, but I just needed MORE. I’m not saying they were being a little skimpy with the filling, but compared to most places they were definitely behind the mark.
4. Porco’s Porchetteria
No this isn’t your traditional Italian roast pork sandwich, but I loved it just as much anyway because it incorporated all those key elements and made it its own. Instead of an Italian loaf, it came on a soft ciabatta roll that had just enough crustiness that it didn’t get soggy. The pork was well-seasoned and tender, which should be expected when your shop specializes in pork. This sandwich had a broccoli rabe pesto and I was here for it! Like the long-hot aioli from Woodrow’s, I love an unique spin on a classic ingredient that can differentiate your overall product. The final touch of this sandwich was fried pork skin which gave a texture that you usually don’t get from a roast pork sandwich unless the broccoli rabe is terribly undercooked. This sandwich would have made the top three if it wasn’t just a tad too salty. Make sure you have a beverage or two if going to Porco’s.
3. Old Original Nick’s Roast Beef
From the other side of Broad Street is another South Philly staple, Nick’s, which as the name mentions specializes in its roast beef. However we are here for that succulent pork of course and they did not disappoint. Their decision to go with a kaiser roll worked in their favor as you got a perfect bite each and every time from supremely seasoned roast pork, perhaps my favorite roast pork if it wasn’t for #1 on this list. The sandwich had plenty of pork drippings which kept everything moist, but led to the only thing holding it back. It simply got too soggy the longer you ate it.
2. John’s Roast Pork
As with any sandwich you get at John’s Roast Pork (JRP), the roll always seems to be the star. Carangi’s Bakery keeps slinging those crusty, yet pillow-y goodness for JRP. The namesake roast pork is no exception here in terms of quality you expect from John’s. Both the pork (SUPER seasoned, unlike any other pork on this list) and the sharp provolone stick out. They don’t offer broccoli rabe here, but hidden in this sandwich is a sauteed spinach that isn’t too shabby! I don’t know why they don’t do a rabe, but I would hate to question John, the man himself who I hold to near iconic levels. The only thing keeping this sandwich out of the number one spot is not only do I wish I had more of that delicious pork, but #1 is just THAT good.
1. Tommy DiNic’s Pork and Beef
I could hear an argument for any other roast pork in the city being on this list at any other spot, other than this one. It is the king and a cultural icon for the city for a reason. Located in Reading Terminal Market, the longest line in the entire building will always be DiNic’s. Their stall has been ranked, featured and praised in just about every medium you can possibly imagine. DiNic’s is what was used in the “Best Sandwich in America” series to represent the Italian roast pork sandwich. The roll is pillow-y and crusty, the pork is seasoned perfectly, the hand-cut sharp provolone melts under the au jus pouring from the tender pork, the rabe is crispy and tender. It embodies each trait and the best of each previous sandwich on this list. If you are in Philly and want the best possible version of this true Philadelphia sandwich, brave the line and enjoy the perfect embodiment of the Italian roast pork.
